I always knew this afternoon would be the most emotional day of this whole trip, and it certainly was.
Ngo'mbe is one of 39 high density urban areas in the capital city Lusaka.
The area has experienced rapid population growth - in 2005 there were approximately 35,000 people living in this 5km diameter settlement, but at the beginning of 2012 there was an estimated 80,000 residents!
When entering Ngo'mbe and driving to our meeting area I was struck by the number of people and children walking around as well as how close all the homes were together, at that point though, we were still in the periphery.
We had a meeting which included members of the WASH (Water Sanitation and Hygiene) Committe for the area, Keeper Zambia Foundation which is WaterAid's partner for the area and the Zwanda Water Trust which was established in 2005 and is responsible for providing clean, safe tap water into the area.
During the meeting we heard about the difficulties faced in the area and how WaterAid and its partners are trying to overcome them.
The major problem is the rapidly expanding population and the difficulties faced with installing water supplies while keeping up with population growth.
The Keeper Zambia Foundation has been working with WaterAid since 2009 and helps to promote the importance of clean water and sanitation. They built a number of demo latrines and toilets to help inspire residents to install these systems.
Before intervention began many people would deficate in plastic bags or dig holes in the ground, there there were toilets they were open holes in the ground which offered no privacy. For those areas where latrines haven't yet been constructed, residents are urged to build structures, normally with plastic bags around the open holes to provide a small amount of privacy.
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One of the many holes which residents dig so they can go to the toilet
The WASH committee are going out meeting residents and talk to them about the importance of clean water and sanitation, the WASH committee make repeat visits to keep the messaging fresh in peoples mind.
Regarding water supply, Zwanda Water Trust get water from a borehole about 4km away from the settlement and pump it to 68 kiosks where they buy the water, however there is a huge price discrepancy between the amount wealthy people are charged and those in the slum. In the wealthy areas residents are charged 6p for 20 litres of water where as those in the slums are charged 12p for 20 litres. The reason behind that is because the work and infrastructure required in these urban areas are far higher than in the wealthy area.
One of the many water kiosks within the slum
About 60% of properties are rented so there is a huge emphasis on landlords to provide adequate sanitation for their tenants, however not all comply.
Following the meeting we walked through the area, meeting residents to talk about their experiences and thoughts surrounding clean water and sanitation.
During the walk I was struck by the amount of noise in the slum, as well as the smells, number of people and those who looked a little worse for wear (drunk), the amount of rubbish littering streets, market stalls selling food and coal, bars as well as the narrow streets and people literally living on top of each other.
Despite the chaos of it all I felt quite safe, children were coming up wanting their photos taken and residents were talking to us.
During the walk I saw a hole which had only recently had a structure built round it to provide privacy. The problem was there were large holes in the plastic surround, lots of flies and the smell was just indescribable. You cannot believe people use them.
On the walk I stopped and spoke to 34-year-old Zangose Mwene who has lived in the settlement for just one month with her three young children. She earns a small living by washing clothes.
Because her home didn't have a toilet she dug a hole to use as a toilet herself and put up the plastic barrier which again had many holes in. This hole is now shared by three families totalling nine people.
Zangose Mwene standing outside the toilet she shares with three other families
She described how when she is using it people peer in to watch her and she gets scared using it at night. She's not heard of anyone being attacked while using the toilets in this settlement, but in the one she came from attacks did happen. The settlement is surrounded by wealthy houses which can be clearly seen from her home. She says she gets angry and upset that she and her family have to use holes in the ground to go to the toilet, while the wealthy people watch the settlement doing nothing, she feels very powerless and that its unfair that so many are suffering while others are not.
She needs to take her children to the clinic once or twice a month because of ilnesses associated with using toilets like this. There is only one clinic serving the 80,000 population and she has to pay for any medicines. Although she's not yet met anyone from the WASH committee, she has heard about the need to wash hands after using the toilet and when eating/preparing food and actively practices it. Although she and her family get ill, since practicing improved hygiene their health has improved.
When it comes to safe water Zangose is far more boyant, she has a kiosk close to her house which she did not have where she used to live. However, she struggles to pay the 12p per 20 litres and for one week a month goes without water. Because she knows drinking water from the river will make her ill, she gets loans from her neighbours so she can buy water and her family can drink safe, clean water, but she does end up getting in debt because of it.
Zangose prefers where she lives now to where she used to live and the only things that she would like are to have access to a latrine and for her children to get good jobs so they can move to a better house.
After speaking to Zangose we moved to the river, a river which faeces run into from latrines, a river which is used by cattle to wash themselves and a river where rubbish is dumped. Once reaching the river we were confronted by a horrendous sight, people washing their clothes and children playing in the water. Although I did not see anyone drink from the water, many people still do if they can't afford the clean, safe water at the kiosks. There area was also being used as a rubbish dump.
The river where children play, rubbish is dumped, clothes are washed and where faeces from latrines are drained
It was one of the most upsetting things I have seen, many if us were in tears (including myself), how, in this say and age are people allowed to live in these conditions? It is truly unbelievable.
What is equally upsetting was while I was crying some children went up to Suzie, a fellow water supoorter, asking why I was so sad. They just didn't understand about the terrible conditions they live in. Suzie explained to them as sensitively as she could and the children seemed not to question it, so maybe there is a small amount of understanding.
One six-year-old girl who befriended us and was interested in what we were doing really wasn't well, she was coughing, shaking, freezing to touch and had, on occasion, a vacant look in her eye. Whatever illness she had must have been a result of her living conditions.
People should not live like this in this day and age.
We left as the sun began to set, and as we walked back to the cars the mood in the town was certainly changing. Music was getting louder, more people were on the streets, there were a few more drunks and we all began to feel a little unsafe!
If there if one day which I reflect on for the rest of my life, it would be this day. I have done my best to put this day into words but I know I have not done it justice.
This day has proved how important WaterAid's work really Is because people should not be forced to live in this way.
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